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Laminate flooring is a cheap, attractive alternative to costly hardwood floors. You can transform a room on a budget, getting the aesthetic of a new, smooth wooden floor without the hassle of installation or staggering cost per plank. Today, we take a look at how to repair laminate flooring water damage.
While laminate flooring is built to withstand heavy use, it’s not as robust as its real-wood counterpart. Small spills, like a glass of wine or water bottle, won’t severely damage the laminate – so long as the spill is wiped up immediately. However, prolonged water damage from a heavy leak or moisture can seep into the laminate.
In some cases, you can repair minor damage. For any significant damage – or after severe flooding, e.g., hurricanes or floods – repairing laminate planks is impossible.
Learn how to repair laminate flooring water damage in the guide below. We’ll cover when you can fix the damage, when you’ll need to replace planks, and how to save a laminate floor where possible.
Laminate floors are hybrid floors consisting of a particleboard wood base covered in a wood image veneer and a transparent wear layer. Because the underlayer isn’t solid wood but formed from wood pulp, it’s highly susceptible to water damage.
When water is left to sit for a long day, it soaks into the particleboard, causing it to break down and become less rigid. Such boards must be replaced.
Water damage is unlikely to occur from a temporary spill that’s quickly cleaned up. Water damage becomes an issue when the water seeps into the wood. Signs of water damage include buckling planks, bubbling or cracking in the surface of the laminate, and the appearance of mold (discoloration or foul smell).
If you identify any of these signs, the laminate floor cannot be repaired. You will need to replace the individual planks. A key benefit of laminate flooring is that you can replace the planks individually at a fraction of the cost of repairing the entire floor.
So, if you see an old water heater leaking or there’s a drip coming through your ceiling, here’s what you need to do.
Repairing laminate flooring is a simple DIY job. It’ll take around three hours to complete and shouldn’t cost you more than $100. Most of the repair work requires removing and replacing the damaged planks. If that sounds too complex, you can always call a professional.
You’ll need to remove any standing water. The quickest way is to use a shop vacuum and squeegee to suck all the water. However, you can use a mop and an absorbent cloth if you don’t have a shop vacuum. Ensure the shop vacuum is in “wet mode” (no bag) before you begin.
You’ll also want to identify the source of the water damage. Look for nearby pipes or appliances, like dishwashers and washing machines. You should also check the ceiling. Once you have located the source of the leak, fix the problem before repairing the floor.
Dirt is the primary cause of mold. After clearing the water, you’ll want to thoroughly clean the floor with detergent, disinfectant, and clean water. Try not to add more liquid than is necessary.
Inspect the entire floor for any signs of damage. Remember, water can seep below the laminate surface – if a wooden board moves as you walk, it could be a sign of hidden water damage. Look for buckling, discoloration, bubbling, signs of mold, misshapen boards, or cracks.
Mark the areas affected by mold using the tape. That way, you can assess how extensive the damage is and where repairs are needed. If there is extensive mold damage, you will need to contact a mold remediation specialist before continuing.
Put on your safety glasses. Using the putty knife or pry bar, remove all the affected baseboards and molding. In most cases, laminate planks are slotted together via a set of interlocking tongues and grooves. Where planks are warped or buckled, removing them should be easy. Otherwise, you’ll need to get underneath to pry them loose.
Where baseboards are damaged in the middle of the floor, you can either:
You’ll need to use any spare planks you have. If you don’t have any spares, contact the company from which you originally bought the floor to get some replacements. (Before installing, new planks will need to be left for two to three days to acclimatize to your home’s humidity and temperature.)
Fit the planks using the interlocking system. Start with the area furthest from the wall. Click the plank into place or fit the tongue of the plank into the groove of the exposed floorboard. Where there’s too much friction, lightly tap the plank with a hammer to fit it securely into place. Using a rubber mallet will protect the new planks from any dints.
Remember to work in the reverse order in which you remove the planks. Finally, take your new finishing nails and gently tack them into the existing holes.